i'm just your average waiter

At the heart of the soul of Manhattan lies its waiters. On a daily basis, we 86 our souls and serve a spectrum of clientele that ranges from bums to native New Yorkers to globe-trotters to the best that the bridges and tunnels have to offer. I watch old Upper West side women sip their Pinot Grigios and wonder "Do they sense what I'm really thinking?" or "Do they wonder who the man beneath the uniform REALLY is?" Chances are, no. But, getting inside the head of your waiter might turn out to be a fun ride after all. So here is an invitation into mine! The New York restaraunt industry, for me, would be nothing but hell if I couldn't make some of it funny. I work at Cafe Roman (name fictionalized), an Italian neighborhood fixture on Manhattan's Upper West Side that, all of us agree, seems to attract a diverse but equally absurd breed of customers. A brilliant singer/songwriter on our waitstaff, my dear friend Jamie, sings it best when she describes Roman's as a place "where Italian Kings rule Latin Queens."

The following will chronicle my writings - most importantly, my Cafe Roman war stories. Here goes...

At your service...

At your service...
Serving drinks in Togo, West Africa

Sunday, August 19, 2007

On Being Old & Lonely: Picky Pam and Two-A-Day Tom


In the spirit of this posting, I searched the term "lonely" on google images, and placed throughout the story are some of the photos that I came across.

It's what each of us fears most, being alone. And yet, if you look around you, so many of us do end up that way. I find that I look towards my own future and the possibility of spending a great majority of my mature years by myself, and instead of accepting it, I deny, deny, deny. I'll have a life partner and he won't die first. Or, I'll have lots of children...children who will be content spending significant amounts of time with their old, lonely Dad.

But then I think of my grandmother, who lost her oldest of two daughters (my mother) to breast cancer, and who lost her husband two years later to heart failure. She, a woman who spent her life giving her entire self to her family, spent these past eight years sitting abandoned, re-watching episodes of Little House on the Prairie, welcoming any distraction no matter how familiar it is. There are, however, things I believe my grandmother, had she pushed herself to do so, could have done to better surround herself with peers and friends so as not to feel so utterly alone. She could have joined a book club - she reads more than anyone I know. She could have worked some kind of desk job that her bum knee would not have prevented her from being able to do. At Cafe Roman, we have two extreme regulars, who, like my grandmother, are elderly and alone. Every day they come in, both with their own quirks, ready to visit their respective surrogate families of waiters.


Mr. Buchmann, or as we compassionately refer to him, "Two-A-Day Tom," comes at least twice a day to Cafe Roman. Unlike other regulars such as "Iced tea lady," (who only ever orders a glass of iced tea and the Roman Burger) he varies what he orders. Not to mention, Buchmann is part of a rare few who comes multiple times a day, while other, less hardcore regulars like "Iced tea lady" come once or twice a week. Best of all, he thoroughly reads the menu twice every day, and not once has he failed to wear the look of someone who is sitting down for the first time at what is sure to become one of his favorite places to eat. He has a slight hunch, one that reveals his quiet sadness. Tom has a way about him that leads me to believe he was never fit to be alone, and never expected to be. Because of that, I feel a personal tie with him, like he offers some kind of calm warning about what the future could hold in store. When I take time to talk to him, his eyes light up in this mesmerizing way that almost seems to take fifteen years off his face. He really listens, and without failure, he will remember the details I choose to share with him about my life. Columbia, hip-hop dancing, writing, Ghana - Mr. Buchmann knows it all and now that I'm one of his surrogate children, he always takes care of me. He leaves at least a 30% tip no matter what, and adds, "Put that towards your first book," or "This is for Columbia!" He won't leave until I've picked up the check, and so if I get busy, he waits patiently, sipping on his Torcolato desert wine, pleasantly drunk (we are only supposed to serve him one glass of wine and one Torcolato). I never withhold a glass or two extra, because as far as I'm concerned, the man has earned his right to take the edge off. And besides, he lives in the building...it isn't like he is going to put himself or anyone else in danger in his drunken trudge back to his apartment.

Pam is a whole other story. Pam has an auburn/orange quaffed hair-do that is reminiscent of Sylvia on the Golden Girls. She walks with a certain urgency that is void of the typical New Yorker's "get out of my way" urgency, but filled instead with the kind of urgency that leads one to believe she might start violently attacking people in a completely arbitrary manner. Pam is notorious for telling phony managers to "fuck off" or "quit being a fake piece of shit." She doesn't hold back, ever. Every day, Pam strolls in, grabs the seating chart, and evaluates where in the restaurant she wants to sit, and more importantly, who she wants her server to be. I used to look at Pam's daily charade through judgmental eyes. I used to think Pam was just another nasty customer with her own especially annoying quirks (she will actually turn around and leave the restaurant if she is not in the mood to be served by any of the waiters on the floor). Lately, I've come to refer to myself as "Pam's last resort." We get long fine, each of us amping up our already sarcastic selves to keep the other laughing. I'll usually open with, "Wow Pam...must have been slim pickings today, huh?" She'll usually shrug, roll her eyes, and go "It's impossible to get a decent server at this place anymore...they've driven all the good ones away!" She'll go on to tell me she hates me four or fives times throughout the meal and that I've utterly failed her "once again!" She cracks me up, and when I'm really on my A-game, I'll get a few belly laughs out of her too. Though it's taken a long time, I've grown to have a sort of love for Pam. She chooses who she sits with because she sees some waiters as her friends, possibly even her children. When Kim was harassed by a busboy, Pam went straight to the general manager to demand that he fired that busser. When it comes to her kids, she does not joke around. I guess Pam and I are acquaintances at this point in our story, but it is nice to know she sees a potential friend in me. Supposedly she was an extremely successful career woman in a very male dominated business until one day she had a complete psychotic breakdown. She retired more-than-comfortably, but she acquired a number of social anxiety problems as a result of the breakdown. Hence, she comes to Roman's every day, often twice, sometimes three times, sits where she wants and works on crossword puzzles. She never even seems that happy to be there, and maybe that is because being there makes her miss those she grew closest to who have since moved on. Perhaps coming in each day, Pam feels like someone entering a house once shared with a deceased loved one. She knows her kids won't be there, she knows there will be a void, but she can't help but return. Maybe because she feels closer to them even when they aren't there, or maybe because she holds some kind of hope that they might be, and that all this time that's passed never really passed at all.


Some of us, namely Adam, have tried to connect Pam and Tom. He is a bit old for her, but they are both alone and they spend almost equal amounts of time in the restaurant. Why not have a friend to eat with rather than to eat alone? Pam refuses to befriend Tom, and I do not know if anyone has ever said anything to Tom about it. What I wonder, though, is why they both seem so complacent in their loneliness. I think about the possibility of one day being in their shoes and I believe I will do all in my power to seek the presence of others - to seek new friendships after old ones have ceased, after old friends have passed. And maybe I will have my favorite places that I attend more than others, places where I care deeply for certain waiters, barristas, etc. But, I will certainly not eat daily at one restaurant and depend on its waitstaff for company. At the end of the day, a waiter is a waiter, and he or she is there because he or she is going to be tipped. I do not want to have to pay for friendly company when I'm old and alone, or if I'm old and alone.

If only Pam and Tom would venture even five blocks from their building (the same building in which Cafe Roman is situated), who knows the people they might encounter? Is it a quality so many people acquire with age that we give up on others, and recede into our selves, or are Pam and Tom just "those" kind of people? Is my grandmother "that" kind of person? And what if we started a club for lonely people who regularly attend certain restaurants in the city alone, and allowed them to invite the other club members to their favorite restaurant for a group outing? Maybe we could call the group Party of One...

Monday, August 6, 2007

Un Peu Malade?

You are about to share with me, by far, the craziest encounter I have ever had in my combined seven years of working in restaurants...

I got to work last night and everything was like it always is. Got my family meal, half carafe of sprite with two limes, and went to the pre-shift meeting, always the best part of the night. It's when we choose the song of the night (the song we will all sing throughout the evening on the floor). Last night's song was "Tiny Dancer" because I told everyone how I used to think the line was "Hold me close, I'm tired of dancing." It's when we share stories, well, I always do. They're usually humiliating to me, but I enjoy sharing my more compromising moments with my crazy Cafe Roman family. They don't judge because most have them have been there. Who's hooking up? Who's not talking? Who's leaving next? What's the fish of the day? Pre-shift has the answers. Pre-shift is also the time to discuss stories, good and bad, from the floor...bad tips, bad accents, bad breath, breast-feeding mothers, the old couple who always pees their pants (Jono brought in huggies one night as a joke), The Solomons, etc, etc. The unlucky sections 2 and 4 in the Cafe, are excused from evening pre-shift 30 minutes early so that the daytime staff can go home, and the closers (sections 1, 3, and 5) can conserve their strength for the long haul that lies ahead. Last night, Katie and Jack were excused promptly at 4:30, and still, everything was like it always is. Katie left belting "Tiny Dancer."

At 5:00, when I stepped into the cafe, Jack was wearing his self-dubbed "waiter pout," the usual look for Jack, but unusual for so early in the shift. "What's going on?" I asked with a motherly Jewish accent (the one I hear in my sleep thanks to Cafe Roman). "This woman asks for something else every time I go back to the table!" "Oh, my," was all that came to mind...I was still his Jewish mother. Running back and forth to a table is a standard occurrence; it blows, but I would not think that it would induce premature pouting. Jack continued, "And, she's having a full-out conversation with herself, no blue-tooth, nothing!" "Where is she?" I had to see this one for myself. "C-38, by herself, and I'm pretty sure she just sat herself there." Jack was pissed. C-38 is a four-top.

C-38 also happened to be in my section. I thanked my lucky stars that I was saved by my status as a closer from dealing with her. I walked over to eavesdrop on her conversation with herself to find a woman in all white with expensive-looking Chanel sunglasses screaming at herself in French. I stood behind her, but within seconds I was afraid, and had to walk away. I went to find Jack.

"Wow...have fun with that one."
"Yeah," his eyes rolled in an epic fashion.
"I wish I knew what she was saying." I was spacing out, letting the writer take over, looking at the nightly hustle and bustle on Broadway.
"I don't," he smacked his lips in his idiosyncratic way, slammed a half-bottle of pelligrino on his tray, and stormed off into the cafe.

She tipped Jack something like $4 on a $65 check. Classy. Not surprising. "Well, at least that's over," he sighed, stapled her signed receipt to the printed copy, stuffed it and the memory of her into his checkbook and walked away.

Imagine my chagrin when she flagged me down two minutes later to ask for a menu. I got her one, and as I handed it to her, she snatched it out of my hands, overestimating my hold on it and underestimating her power, hitting herself in the face with it. She proceeded to slam the menu violently on the table, causing my entire section to look over at us, concerned. She made them feel! Note to self: next time I am at work and in need of sympathy, have a schizophrenic breakdown.

"Ma'am, is everything okay?" She stopped slamming the menu and held her hands in the air, flexed as if she were in the middle of choking someone to death.
"NO! I JUST WANT TO KILL EVERYONE!" she screamed.
"Excuse me?" was the only response I had it in me to muster.
"It's not you, it's the EVIL ONES!" She started twitching her head back and forth, up and down as if to address their physical presence in the air.
"Oh, okay," I said and ran away ready to pee my pants.

She ended up ordering one scoop of vanilla sorbet. She ate it, slowly, of course and cursed at the imaginary evil ones throughout the entire hour she sat there. I begged managers to make her leave, but they argued that until I physically had four people who needed to be seated they could not ask her to leave. I was too busy to recruit a table for myself, so I was stuck with crazy lady until she willingly, or by the sword s of the evil ones, left the cafe.

Most of her crazy outbursts were in French, and I only wish I spoke French so that I could convey to you the degree of her insanity. At one point, though, she did start repeating "This is MY LIFE! MY LIFE! This is MY LIFE!" in a heavy accent that reminded me of Maya Rudolph's impressions of Donatella Versace on Saturday Night Live.

She eventually left, and I had the pleasure of serving Amanda, her two roommates and a date of hers. They were extremely generous with their tip (as is expected! haha.), especially because they witnessed me get three tips below 15% in a row (one of which was $40 on $452). They got complimentary Prosecco, cheese, olives and tomatoes from the manager who used to despise me. Speaking of that, he and I have been getting along really well lately. Almost too well. He even kind of hit on me the other day, something about putting his package somewhere...I've blocked it out.

Anyway, I made myself feel better about the bad tip by finishing off half of a bottle of Prosecco that they didn't drink as well as a Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir! Think it's irresponsible that I drank on the job? Think it's tacky that I finished someone's bottle of Prosecco? Well too bad. THIS IS MY LIFE!!!

I'd Like to Try Your Dark Chocolate Bag, Please...


Amanda and I decided to go out for a bite to eat on Saturday night after my particularly grueling Saturday brunch shift in the 90 degree heat. We set off with no particular destination in mind, and ended up at Isabella's, where we decided to really go all out, desert wine and all!

When it came to ordering desert, we asked our attractive, Italian-looking, actor/waiter for the menu. I opened the menu, and as if it were some cosmic joke, the first desert that caught my eye was the "Dark Chocolate Bag!" We laughed and laughed (both of us were well on our way to tipsy) and I vowed to bring it up with the waiter. I was cursing the heavens that our waiter was white because if he'd been an attractive black guy this could have literally been the greatest gift I've ever received.

When he arrived to take the desert order, Amanda and I were laughing. So I desperately tried to get in character and speak without cracking up. "So, how's your dark chocolate bag?" He didn't pick up on the innuendo at all, but I giggled like a schoolgirl anyway. "It's great," he answered with a completely straight face, and then added "It's our specialty desert." As a waiter, I understand that dark chocolate bag jokes are probably like poison to his ears after a year at Isabella's, but I could not resist. And neither could Amanda. I glanced at her, choking on laughter and asked whether we were going to get the dark chocolate bag or the fresh fruit platter (we'd already decided on the fruit platter, but it was awkward just ordering it after he hyped up the dark chocolate bag).

Amanda made the token "it's your choice" face that all waiters hate because it means more indecision, more time wasted standing at the table, and more time passed since the last time you've checked on that horribly high maintenance table with a ridiculously expensive check. Plus, since Amanda and I are young; he probably didn't even think we were going to tip him over 15%. Young people are poor, cheap or a combination of the two when it comes to tipping.

"I think we'll just take the fruit...no dark chocolate bag for me tonight!" I said. He shrugged, indifferent to the fact that we didn't take his advice. And then as he walked away Amanda, in a moment of unexpected brilliance (not because she isn't brilliant, but because she shocks me every time she gets dirrty), said "He's had enough dark chocolate bag!" The waiter fake-laughed without processing what she'd said and then it hit him like it does us all Wait! That was ACTUALLY absurd and hilarious. Did she really say that?!?! From ten feet away or so he replied "Reeeeeallyyyy?" with a smile. I turned fire-engine red and said something like "OH MY GOD!" laughing hysterically. That was when I knew we'd easily trumped any previous dark chocolate bag jokers Jeff had ever waited on.

I've decided I am going to periodically venture back to Isabella's - holding onto the faint glimmer of hope that, one day, some otherwise uneventful day, I will sit down and a tall dark chocolate boy will come to the table and ask me if he can get me anything to drink. I'll resist the temptation to jump right to desert, gratuitously flirt through the drink order, the appetizer, the entree, and finish by telling him I'd like to try his dark chocolate bag.